Gurla Mandata Expedition

Overview

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Gurla Mandhata, or Naimona'nyi or Memo Nani(Chinese) is the highest peak of the Nalakankar Himal a small subrange of the Himalaya. It lies in Burang Country of the Ngari Prefecture in the Tibet autonoumos of China, near the northwest corner of Nepal. It is the 34th highest peak of the world (using a 500 metre prominence cutoff). It is also notable for being well within the Tibetan Plateu (most peaks of similar height - except notably Shisapangma, the world's 14th highest peak - lie nearer to or outside the edge of the Plateau) and relatively far away from other peaks of height greater than 7500 metres. It sits roughly across Lake Manasarowar  from the sacred peak of Mount Kailash. The Tibetan name, Naimona'nyi, is said to come from naimo = "herbal medicine", na = "black", nyi = "heaped-up slabs", giving "the mountain of heaped-up slabs of black herbal medicine.".

Climbing history

In 1905 T.G. Longstaff, accompanied by two alpine guides and six porters, made an attempt on Gurla Mandhata. They turned back at around 7,000 m (23,000 ft) after being caught in an avalanche and encountering other difficulties. This was a strong achievement for the time, especially for such a small group; at that time no summit of over 7,000 m had yet been climbed and Longstaff's height represented a world altitude record.

The first ascent of the peak was by a joint Japanese/Chinese team led by Katsutoshi Hirabayashi, via the north side of the peak, in May 1985. Since that time, there have been six additional successful ascents and two failed attempts on the peak. 

In 1997, an attempt was made to ascend the peak via the then-unclimbed North Face route by Quinn Simons, Soren Peters, and their guide, Charlie Fowler. The team made a valiant effort, climbing high on the mountain, but after severe storms and other difficulties had to retreat. Their descent ended in a fall of some 450 m (1,500 ft) down the North Face of the peak. Fowler was slightly injured, while Simons and Peters both suffered extreme frostbite on their extremities

Itinerary

Day
Activities
Day 1
Arrival to Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
Day 2
Stay in Kathmandu for Tibet visa procedure
Day 3 
Expedition preparation
Day 4
Drive to Zangmu Overnight in hotel
Day 5
Drive to Nyalam. Overnight in hotel
Day 6
Nyalam, rest day and acclimatization
Day 7
Trek to Lake Paiko Tso. Overnight in camp
Day 8
Drive to saga. Overnight in camp
Day 9
Drive to Pariyang. Overnight in camp
Day 10
Drive to Darehen. Overnight in camp
Day 11
Trek to Dhiraphuk Gompa Overnight in camp.
Day 12
Trek over Drolma Pass to Zutulphuk, Overnight in camp
Day 13
Trek to Darche and drive to Mansarovar, Overnight in camp
Day 14
Drive to Gurla Mandata Base Camp
Day 15
Climbing Period Gurla Mandata 
Day 35
Cleaning up Base Camp
Day 36
Drive to Pariyang Overnight in camp
Day 37
Drive to Saga. Overnight in camp
Day 38
Drive to Paiko Tso. Overnight in camp
Day 39
Drive to Nyalan Overnight in hotel 
Day 40
Drive to Kathmandu Transfer to hotel 
Day 41
Kathmandu
Day 42
Departure
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Includes / Excludes

Cost Includes
·    5 nights hotel in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast- 3 star hotel
·    Staff Cook, Kitchen boy, Tibetan kitchen helper
·    2:1 Climbing Sherpa per member
·    All tents for Bc and above as required.
·    Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, & Kitchen cooking equipment
·    Tibet visa for the climber & expedition staff
·    Hotel in Zhangmu, Nyalam,  (bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
·    Yaks & Porters to carry the luggage.
·    Kathmandu – Nepal Tibet boarder – Kathmandu by tourist bus
·    All the necessary transportation.
·    Truck for carrying equipments & staff.
·    Climbing Peak permit for mount Gurla Mandata
·    Chinese Liaison officer
·    Life, medical insurance for Nepali staff
·    Solar panel for charging batteries & lights
·    Welcome dinner
·    Our service charge
·    Company Duffle Bag
 
Cost Excludes
·    Extra nights in Kathmandu
·    Summit Bonus USD 500 for climbing Sherpa
·    Personal expenses
·    Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
·    Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
·    Personal Climbing equipment.
·    Bar & Beverage bills
·    Security Deposit USD 500 (Sharing of the total person)  
 
·    Extra Service if required:
     Oxygen  4 litters: USD 400
     Mask & Regular: USD 250
 

 

Downloads

1:Click here for Expedition Gear List

2:Click here for Expedition Contract

3:Click here for Member Bio-Data

Departure Dates

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Trip Price

Duration: 42 Days

Technical:

Physical:

Max-Altitude: 7,694 m (25,243 ft)

Accommodation:

Country: Tibet