Overview

Ama Dablam is one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, often compared to the Matterhorn due to the beauty of its line. High on the Southwest face, a hanging glacier looks like the sacred ornament box worn by ladies in the Sherpa community: the Dablam. It is this spectacular feature at the origin of the name “Ama Dablam”. The mountain is on the trail to Everest, in the heart of the Khumbu valley, home of a large sherpas’ community. The climb is amazing and follows the spectacular southwest ridge. Ama Dablam offers both very interesting rock and ice climbing with a very steep environment. As such, the mountain is not for beginners but is a “must” for serious mountaineers. As usual in the Himalayas, we will use fixed lines on most of the route. The climb by the southwest ridge limits objective risks because a large part of the ascent will follow the crest of the ridge. There is just around 300m of climb (distance) with exposure under the Dablam glacier.

Climb description

Base Camp (4,570 m / 15,000 ft)

Ama Dablam Base Camp is one of the most comfortable camps that you can imagine: a big grassy land with a direct view over the southwest ridge and summit. You reach the summit after a two-hour trek from a trail at the exit of Pangboche. For people who need to make a phone call, the communication on Ncell line is quite good on the rocks at the entrance of Base Camp when you can view the village of Pangboche (5 minutes walking distance). A lodge at 10 minutes walking distance of Base Camp offers an Internet connection but it is very unreliable.

Base Camp to C1 (5,700 m / 18,700 ft)

The route to C1 is a walk except above Advanced Base Camp (ABC at 5,300 m / 17,400 ft) where there are boulders up to scramble (tiring!). At the end of these boulders, an easy climb of long slabs with fixed lines lead to C1, on the southwest ridge. The tents are set up on rocks with little space. Except if the trail is covered by snow or ice, going to C1 has no technical difficulty. However, it is a long trek with significant altitude gain. We will not set up tents at ABC but that will be the destination of our first rotation to acclimatise.

C1 to C2 (5,900 m / 19,360 ft)

In normal dry conditions, most of the route is rock with some snow traverse. The crux of the day is the yellow tower with around 10m (33 ft) of 5.7 grade (US) or 5a (French). C2 is just above the yellow tower.

C2 to C3 (6,200 m / 20,340 ft)

C3 is situated on the “mushroom” just below the Dablam. It was barely used these past few years because too exposed on potential avalanches from the Dablam. The fall of a large piece of serac on the southwest ridge side this 2014 winter might have improved the safety required for a camp there. If it is the case, we could set up a Camp 3 on the mushroom or nearby. From C2, the route is a mix of rock scrambling and incredibly “airy” ridges. The difficult section of the day is the grey tower, around 50 m (150 ft) of 5.5 grade (US) or 4b (French).

C3 to Summit (6,856 m / 22,494 ft)

From the mushroom, environ 3 pitches of 40º slopes in snow or ice (according to conditions) on the right side of the Dablam will lead to the fluted slopes going to the summit. Usually in good condition, a 50º-snow/ice slope gives access to one of the most coveted mountains in the Himalayas with a view over five 8,000m summits.

What is great with Ama Dablam…

·A fabulous mountain that any mountaineer would like to have on his climbing resume

·Technical climb mixing rock (short sections up to 5.7/5.8 US grade or 5a/5b French grade) and ice climbing

·A very nice Base Camp on a vast grassy field

·The most amazing altitude camp that you can imagine (Camp 2 – see photos): a maximum of 8 tents hanging on the ridge with incredible exposure on both sides

·Limited objective risks (avalanche, ice or rock fall)

·A huge stumbling piece of serac at the bottom of the final slope to the summit prevented most expeditions at the end of October and November 2015. This serac fell off during the winter and the path to the summit is much safer now.

To be aware of…

·The flip side of a small Camp 2: the place can be busy and unfortunately, quite dirty in the past years. We are making an effort with the SPCC (Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee) to improve the situation in this camp in 2015.

·A lot of concentration is required in the maneuvers, even when tiredness is there because nearly the whole climb has significant exposure (steep drops).

·Your climbing friends will be (really) jealous of your images of Ama Dablam…

Itinerary

Includes / Excludes

Cost Includes

• • All arrival and departure transfer services in Kathmandu
• • 4 nights’ accommodation at Kathmandu on B/B basis
• • Guide, cook, kitchen staffs and porters during the trekking and climbing
• • Domestic flight return ticket to the start location of the trek for all Members and staff
• • All trekking and camping equipment camp (furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, etc.)
• • Large Base Camp tent (single basis)
• • Mountain tents above Base Camp (twin shared basis)
• • 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner with tea or coffee) along with accommodation)
• • Climbing permit
• • National park fee
• • Garbage Deposit
• • 1:1 Climbing Sherpa
• • All costs related to the Government Liaison Officer
• • First Aid medical kit for the Members and staff
• • Satellite phone for security - available to Members at cost
• • Radio set for security during climbing
• • Required fixed and dynamic ropes during the climb
• • Emergency Oxygen and Mask Regulator
• • Government Taxes levied in Nepal
• • Two Ascent Himalayas duffle bags
• • Welcome Dinner in Kathmandu

Cost Excludes

• • International flight fare from/to Kathmandu
• • Any airport departure taxes which might be applicable at the time of the Expedition
• • Visa fees
• • Summit/Safety bonus USD 600.
• • Tips for climbing, kitchen and porter staff (up to the Member to decide the amount)
• • Any costs related to the Expedition terminating earlier than expected (such as additional nights in Kathmandu or changing international flight tickets)
• • Any costs related to the Member having left the Expedition earlier than the rest of the group or having decided to spend one or more days in lodges when the rest of the Expedition is in Base Camp.
• • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu (except welcome dinner)
• • Extra hotel charges at Kathmandu (such as bar and laundry expenses)
• • Optional trips or sightseeing tours
• • Personal climbing equipment
• • Travel insurance
• • Personal repatriation and medical insurance (mandatory)
• • Emergency evacuation and/or helicopter rescue if required
• • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving into Nepal (if applicable)
• • Personal expenses

Dates & Prices

Gear List

Clothing
☐ Down suit
☐ Down Jacket
☐ Primaloft or light down jacket
☐ Primaloft trousers
☐ weatherproof jacket
☐ weatherproof salopettes
☐ Softshell jacket
☐ Softshell pant
☐ The top first layer (x2)
☐ The top heavier first layer (x2)
☐ Thermal underwear long john thick & Thin (x3)
☐ Trekking trousers (x2)
☐ Warm hat (x2)
☐ Buff (x2 including one with fleece)
☐ Liner gloves / Finger gloves
☐ Light gloves (x2)
☐ Expedition gloves
☐ Prim aloft mitts
☐ Down mitts
☐ Thermal balaclava
☐ Face mask
☐ Sun hat
☐ Sunglasses (x2)

Climbing gear
☐ Backpack 45-50Litre
☐ Harness
☐ Descender
☐ Ascender (Jumar)
☐ Climbing helmet
☐ Ice Axe
☐ Steel crampons
☐ Trekking poles
☐ Head Lamp
☐ Lithium spare batteries
☐ Carabiners (3 x HMS / pear shape)
☐ Carabiners (3 snap links)
☐ Slings 120 cm (2)
☐ 3 meters of 8 mm climbing cord
☐ Prussic loops (2)
☐ Duct tape
☐ Lighters or Matches boxes (3)

Personal Equipment
☐ Sunscreen
☐ Lip block (4)
☐ Water bottles (2x 1L) with an insulated cover
☐ Vacuum Flask
☐ Water purification tablet
☐ Toilet roll (1 or 2)
☐ Toiletry bag with mirror
☐ Personal first aid kit Footwear
☐ Socks (3 pairs of thin socks, 3 pairs of thick socks)
☐ Mountaineering boots
☐ Gaiters
☐ Trekking shoes
☐ Base Camp shoes
☐ Down shoes

Camping equipment
☐ Sleeping Bag (2)
☐ Sleeping bag liner (optional)
☐ Inflatable sleeping mattress
☐ Pee bottle
☐ Multi-tool knife